The Humble Victual: A Culinary Journey Through Class and Culture

Victuals. An archaic word that conjures images of dusty Western saloons and grizzled cowboys chowing down on beans around a campfire. Yet this unassuming term — simply meaning food or provisions — carries far more weight than its humble definition suggests. Our relationship with victuals lies at the very heart of human culture, shaping our societies, economies and identities in profound ways.

The Politics of the Plate

Make no mistake — food is political. What we eat, how we source it, and who has access to it are deeply intertwined with issues of class, inequality and power. For much of human history, the quality and quantity of one’s victuals served as a stark indicator of social status. The nobility feasted on exotic delicacies while peasants subsisted on gruel. Even today, food insecurity remains a pressing issue in both developing and wealthy nations.

The industrialisation of food production in the 20th century promised to democratise nutrition, making cheap calories available to the masses. Yet this came at a steep cost. Our modern food system, dominated by a handful of multinational conglomerates, has severed our connection to the land and to traditional foodways. Processed foods high in sugar, salt and unhealthy fats now form the bulk of many people’s diets — especially among lower income groups.

This nutritional divide along class lines has dire consequences. Obesity and diet-related diseases like diabetes disproportionately affect poorer communities, perpetuating cycles of ill health and economic disadvantage. Meanwhile, the wealthy can afford to be picky eaters, fueling booming markets for organic, artisanal and ethically-sourced victuals.

The Environmental Cost of Our Daily Bread

Our food choices don’t just impact our waistlines and wallets — they have profound implications for the health of our planet. The global food system is estimated to be responsible for up to 30% of greenhouse gas emissions. Industrial agriculture degrades soil, pollutes waterways and drives deforestation. Overfishing is pushing many marine species to the brink of collapse.

Climate change in turn threatens food security worldwide. Shifting weather patterns and extreme events like droughts and floods are already impacting crop yields. As temperatures rise, some regions may become unsuitable for agriculture altogether. The spectre of climate-driven food shortages looms large over the coming decades.

Yet our victuals also offer a potential solution to the climate crisis. A shift towards more plant-based diets could significantly reduce emissions. Regenerative farming practices can help sequester carbon in soil. Reducing food waste — currently estimated at one-third of all food produced globally — would have a massive impact.

The Cultural Melting Pot

Beyond mere sustenance, food serves as a powerful vector for cultural identity and exchange. Our culinary traditions connect us to our heritage and community. The rituals around preparing and sharing meals form the bedrock of social bonds.

In our increasingly globalised world, food has become a key means of experiencing other cultures. The proliferation of ethnic restaurants in cities worldwide allows diners to take a culinary journey without leaving their neighbourhood. Fusion cuisines emerge as culinary traditions collide and intermingle.

Yet this culinary cosmopolitanism can be a double-edged sword. As global food corporations co-opt and commodify traditional cuisines, there’s a risk of cultural erasure and homogenisation. The nuances of regional variations and time-honoured techniques get lost in translation.

The fetishisation of “exotic” foods can perpetuate harmful stereotypes and power imbalances. We must be mindful of the colonial legacy that underpins much of our modern food culture. The spice trade that first connected East and West was built on exploitation. Many staple foods of the Americas were appropriated from indigenous peoples.

From Farm to Fork: The Supply Chain Conundrum

The journey our victuals take from field to plate is longer and more complex than ever before. Global supply chains allow us to enjoy tropical fruits in winter and have fresh seafood flown in from halfway around the world. Yet this convenience comes at a cost.

Long-distance food transportation contributes significantly to emissions. Reliance on far-flung suppliers leaves us vulnerable to disruptions, as the COVID-19 pandemic starkly illustrated. The push for efficiency and standardisation in industrial agriculture has led to a dangerous lack of diversity in our food systems.

There’s a growing movement to shorten these supply chains and reconnect consumers with food producers. Farmers’ markets, community-supported agriculture schemes and urban farming initiatives are flourishing. These alternatives promise fresher, more sustainable victuals and fairer returns for farmers.

Yet we must be wary of romanticising a return to purely local food systems. In many regions, self-sufficiency is simply not feasible. International trade in foodstuffs will remain crucial for global food security. The challenge lies in making these supply chains more resilient and equitable.

The Future of Food

As we contend with the triple threat of climate change, population growth and resource depletion, the question of how to sustainably feed billions looms large. Technology promises some intriguing solutions. Vertical farming could maximise yields in urban areas. Lab-grown meat might satisfy our protein cravings without the environmental toll of livestock. Genetic engineering could produce more resilient and nutritious crops.

Yet we must approach these innovations with caution. The unintended consequences of tampering with complex natural systems can be severe. The control of these technologies by a handful of corporations risks further consolidating power over our food supply.

Perhaps the most crucial shift needed is in our relationship with food itself. We must move away from the mindset of cheap, disposable victuals and rediscover the true value of what sustains us. This means being willing to pay more for ethically and sustainably produced food. It means relearning the skills of cooking from scratch and preserving seasonal bounty.

Education has a vital role to play here. By teaching children about nutrition, cooking and food systems, we can empower the next generation to make informed choices. School gardens and farm-to-school programs offer hands-on ways to reconnect youth with the source of their victuals.

A Seat at the Table for All

As we reimagine our food systems for the 21st century, equity must be at the forefront. Access to nutritious, culturally appropriate victuals should be a basic human right, not a privilege. This means addressing the root causes of food insecurity — poverty, discrimination and lack of infrastructure.

We need policies that support small-scale farmers and fisherfolk, particularly in developing countries. Investment in rural infrastructure and education can help stem the tide of urbanisation that’s hollowing out agricultural communities. Fair trade practices can ensure producers receive a living wage.

In urban areas, food deserts — neighbourhoods lacking access to fresh, healthy food — must be eliminated. This might involve incentives for grocers to open in underserved areas, or support for community-run food co-ops. Mobile markets and food delivery programs can help bridge the gap.

Breaking Bread, Building Bridges

In these divisive times, perhaps food offers a path to greater understanding and connection. The simple act of sharing a meal has the power to break down barriers and foster empathy. Culinary diplomacy initiatives have shown promise in easing international tensions.

On a local level, community kitchens and dining clubs can bring together people from diverse backgrounds. Food-based social enterprises are creating employment opportunities for marginalised groups. Initiatives that rescue surplus food not only address waste but can provide meals for those in need.

A Call to Action

The challenges facing our food systems are daunting, but not insurmountable. Each of us has the power to drive change through our daily choices. By being mindful consumers, supporting local producers, and reducing waste, we can vote with our forks for a more sustainable and equitable food future.

We must also use our voices to demand action from policymakers and corporations. Push for stronger environmental regulations, support for sustainable farming practices, and measures to address food insecurity. Hold food companies accountable for their environmental and social impacts.

Above all, we must reclaim our connection to food — not just as fuel, but as a source of pleasure, culture and community. By treating our victuals with the respect they deserve, we honour the labour of those who produce them and the bounty of the earth that sustains us all.

The humble victual, it turns out, is anything but. It’s the thread that weaves through the very fabric of our societies, economies and ecosystems. By reimagining our relationship with food, we have the opportunity to create a more just, sustainable and delicious world for all.

Sources: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 & 10

Bob Lynn / 28-Nov-2024